Dunns baker and confectioner

Dunns is a sixth-generation artisan bakers, employing 65 members of staff operating across two stores in vibrant Crouch End, North London, and a second location in Muswell Hill which was opened, mid-pandemic, in October 2020.

Trading predominantly in retail with some wholesale, Dunns are traditional artisan bakeries, selling sourdoughs, deli style sandwiches, babkas alongside the more traditional jam donuts, crusty bloomers, Bakewell tarts and much more. 

Meet the Bakers spoke with Lewis Freeman, owner/operator of Dunns to find out more: 

MTB: Where did it all start? 

LF: It all started in 1820, when my great, great, great grandfather started working as a baker, about a mile away from where we are now, in Highgate. He opened his own bakery, for the first time in 1827 , and he and his descendants proceeded to work in and around various bakeries across North London. 

During the Second World War, my grandfather’s brother ran a bakery called Freemans in Enfield and when my grandfather returned from the war, he decided to go into the family business with his brother... but his brother said no, so he joined Dunn’s Bakery, which was already running in Crouch End. A few years later he bought Dunn’s from the then owner, and my family have owned and run Dunns Bakery ever since. 

I didn’t always know that I wanted to be a baker, even though it was the family business and I have been working in the bakery since I was 1 4. I studied finance at university, and it was when I moved away from home, and the bakery, to study at university, that I realised and was certain that I wanted to run a bakery and not go into finance.

MTB: What would you say the biggest changes in the industry have been since your great-great-great grandfather's day?

LF: The main changes we have experienced over the years are the innovations and advancements in technology, product trends, and of course, more recently the COVID-19 pandemic. 

I took the decision to keep the store open right throughout the pandemic. We furloughed the ‘at risk’ staff but everyone else in the team, made the decision to work. We carried out our deliveries on Cargo Bikes, and at one point, during the pandemic, a third of our sales came from these deliveries. 

We saw a change, during this time, in buying habits. Our customers would buy significantly more from our patisserie range. Our beautiful cheesecakes, Frasier cakes and miniature tarts were very popular at this time.

The planning for our second store started at the end of 2019. We considered cancelling the opening, due to the pandemic, but made the decision to plough on with our plans and- so far, so good! 

MTB: What Products do you offer to your customers?

LF: We have a really wide range of products including bread rolls, tin-bread sourdough, Danish rye breads, focaccia, baguettes, donuts, Danish pastries, croissants, sandwiches, patisserie, sausage rolls, and a full hotplate selection. We also sell a full range of sandwiches, celebration cakes, and ice cream! Basically everything.

MTB: How have consumer preferences changed over the years and why do you think this is?

LF: The Sourdough has been on a steady upwards trajectory for the past 8-10 years. Across the board we have seen a slow evolution from traditional, to artisan traditional, and we’re seeing it across our other confectionary lines as well. In confectionary, Babka and plaited bread, are very popular, and almond croissants are in demand now more than they have ever been. 

There has been a move away from the more traditional Belgium buns and twist buns to the Danish pastries. People’s tastes are changing, and they are getting bored of the same old thing. They seem to be more invested in what they are eating, and they want to indulge in something a bit more fun.

MTB: What are your best-sellers and why do you think these became favourites?

LF: Sourdough breads, jam donuts and sausage rolls are our best sellers. We do no-nonsense quality incredibly well. For example, in the jam donuts we use Tiptree jam, in the sausage rolls we use high quality sausage meat form the local butcher, the Crouch End sourdough is a really nice Sourdough, containing a blend of different grains, and our prices are reasonable for London prices, vs some of our competitors.

MTB: What advice would you give to bakers starting up today? 

LF: Come back in 6 months when we know how the world will be then! 

Alternatively, for young bakers I would say, get as much work experience in bakeries as you can. Even for a few days or a week. 

When I was younger, I was privileged to work in a number of different bakeries over a period of time, which really helped me. Many bakeries or restaurants will help arrange exchanges of staff, so that young bakers can gain multifaceted experience. This really helps them to learn the craft.

MTB: What challenges and opportunities can you see for the bakery industry?

LF: It’s a deeply concerning time, all-round. I was very worried at the start of the COVID-19 pandemic, but then it looked like if we put in the hard work that it would pay off. This crisis is more concerning, as I’m not yet sure we can just graft our way out of this. 

We will need to put our prices up, as we don’t want to cheapen the quality of any of our products to save money. I just hope that people will continue to come out and buy our products, so yes, I am worried about the cost-of-living crisis, right now. 

At the same time, bakery products aren’t the most expensive treats that people can buy, so there is an opportunity there. 

For example, someone could have a sausage roll and an ice cream, and that can be a really nice treat. I like to think that there is an opportunity for us to be the reasonable indulgence that people can still go out and enjoy, without having to break the bank. 

Recruitment and retention are also a challenge. We need to look after our staff as much as we can, and help them through this time, as much as we can, as they are feeling the effect of the cost-of-living crisis, as much as anyone. 

As an employer, the best we can do is to put our staffs wages up, give them as much work as they can comfortably handle, and be there for them, as and when they need us. 

MTB: How do you find the partnership with BAKO?

LF: It is good to know that there is a bakery wholesaler that you are a part of as a member, Bako works with us and other bakeries to provide a meaningful customer/supplier relationship. 

MTB: Do you have any product launches or, new offerings planned for this year? 

LF: Christmas is around the corner, and we have a tried and tested range of 40+ Christmas products that people love. Our best seller is of course the mince pie, we make our own beautiful pastry, with our own home-made mincemeat, that contains a good amount of brandy, and delicious dried fruit (not too much sugar). Our customers love them.

“Dunn’s Bakery is still, THE BEST bakery/Patisserie I have ever seen…Dunn’s is 200 years old this year, 200!!! If you needed a recommendation, I think that speaks for itself. Fresh and local flours and ingredients when possible and GORGEOUS breads of every kind. I cannot praise this place enough!”

George

Customer of Dunns

“This is still the very, very best bakers in North London. Everything's wonderfully fresh and the range of breads, cakes, sandwiches, and pastries is just awesome. The shop is always fully staffed, and they are all so helpful- you cannot fail to walk away fully satisfied and usually possessed of a few more things than you went there to buy! I have never regretted a single purchase. 5 stars for sure!”

Melissa

Customer of Dunns